Must admit my first impression of Moscow wasn’t very good. I had arrived at 6:30 on thursday morning after sleeping very little in the night train. It was dark and rainy and I couldn’t check into my room until much later that day. So I just dropped my bag and started exploring the city. I must say that it was pretty miserable. I was nauseous from lack of sleep and visiting the Gulag museum wasn’t necessarily the best idea to start with…

However, the weather cleared up yesterday and the last couple of days have been wonderful (and not cold at all!)

Moscow is nowhere like St Petersburg: no-where, but it has its own assets…. Starting with the Kremlin.

So today I’ve experienced one of what I call my “aesthetics shocks” while visiting it. It was magnificent. The sun was shining on the ensemble of churches. I sat on the wall opposite the Dormition Cathedral and just stared at it for a long while. I was thinking about the times where Tsars where walking these grounds and trying to imagine what it was like to have lived there and how people thought. My mind wandered into a happy state of imagination and dream. Then this came onto my i-pod and I started crying tears of joy. It was perfect (although anachronic). I felt so blessed to be there and to be able to see these treasures which had been kept away from people’s eyes for so many centuries and until not so long ago.

Interestingly, I always thought I could never see a church as incredible as St Peter’s in Rome, but the inside of the Dormition Cathedral is equally breathtaking. It has nothing to envy to the Sistine Chapel either – it even has an extra element of mystery and even, doom. I suspect the presence of Ivan the Terrible’s throne might have something to do with it…

Afterwards I walked about Alexandrovski gardens and watched children playing with the autumn leaves in the afternoon light.

It’s been a good day.

Kudrinskaya Place just downstairs as I step out / The building where I’m staying (on the 9th floor) / Workers everywhere / Guarding the eternal flame / Queuing outside of the Kremlin / Dormition Cathedral / inside / dark skinned Jesus icon /  medals / military school parade / Palace of Congresses / My reflection in it / Views on the city from the Kremlin / Don’t eat these! / The famous Elisieev shop / Café Pushkin / The Metro / Beautiful scupture near Kievskaya / Discovering georgian food / Kate

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More snippets of my daily life.

Off to Moscow tonight and very excited about it!

Breakfast sitting by the window / wallpaper / arriving at uni / accross the road from me (if you look closely you’ll see poneys!) / desk / going exploring the city – in the metro / f**ïng love this song /almost bed time

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The day I went to see Lenin’s office

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Today was my mother’s 60th birthday.

She is the best person in my life and possibly the best person I have ever met. I’m so lucky destiny landed me into her arms.

I stumbled upon this text by Tolstoi about his aunt Toinette (who raised him) which sums her up:

Tante Toinette a été la plus grande influence que j’aie reçu dans ma vie. Elle m’a enseigné le bonheur d’aimer. Elle ne l’a pas fait par des mots – les mots c’est si peu de choses – elle l’a fait par ce qu’elle était. Je l’ai vue près de moi pendant plus de trente ans – on peut dire que je l’ai vue vivre, et je ne connais pas de cas où elle ait offensé quelqu’un.

De la vie de Tante Toinette le mal était absent. C’est facile à dire mais difficile à faire. Je n’ai connu qu’un être de cette sorte: elle. Chère chère tante, pardonnez-moi, je pense au bien que je n’ai pas fait ou que je n’ai pas su faire, et au mal que j’ai fait à ceux qui ne sont plus, tandis que toi, ta vie n’a été que le bien, toujours, et la bonté, comme sans effort, naturellement, spontanément, sans cesse.”

Happy Birthday Mummy, I love you!

(and she’s born the same day as Nietzsche by the way)

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Lately university has become increasingly fun with all the different nationalities mixing together and getting to know each other. In my class there are 4 japanese people, 3 coreans, 2 chinese, 1 german, 1 american and me. Makes out for some funny moments, especially when we are trying to communicate with each other in russian. You’d thought we’d all speak english but some of us don’t.

Last week we were working on these classic russian cartoons called “Ералаш”, and started to discuss pets and dogs in particular. Followed a surreal scene where everyone proceeded to show how to bark in their language. The russians say “gaf gaf”, the french “vouf vouf”, the chinese something else etc… It was hilarious, we just couldn’t stop laughing.

When I look at this group of young people I can’t help but feel great. Everyone’s spirit is very positive and open-minded. There is a healthy curiosity for each other’s culture and a desire to interact and connect. Kanako and I have some great conversation in russian for example, in which we burst into laughter every other word as it’s so tough to express yourself with so few words for now…

Anyway, I think this russian class would be an anthropologist’s delight.

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In his 1985 song “Russians(which melody comes from Prokofiev) Sting sang “there isn’t a monopoly of common sense / on either side of the political fence”.

Well, there is a number of things I have observed which goes to show that today, common sense might actually be on Russia’s side.

For example, they have a day here called “День учителя” – the day of teachers. A day during which children, students and parents pay tribute to teachers and professors all around the country by bringing them gifts and – as usual here – flowers. You can feel a profound respect for education; it’s a serious business.

There is something incredibly right, and relieving, about being in a country (city?) that isn’t (yet?) fanatically capitalistic and liberal, and where certain values are still sacred. Oh and I haven’t mentionned “День пожилых людей” – the day of old people!

In France, that type of deference has completely disappeared.

So what side of the fence again?

This poster says: “For them, it’s their future! 5th of october, Day of teachers”

This one says “Tell them thank you! 1st of october, Day of old people”

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«Ce qui me fait enrager, voyez-vous, c’est l’insensibilité des hommes. La maladie du monde c’est l’insensibilité. Pour sortir de cette hantise, je m’y prends comme je peux. Dans le monde : tripes, gueules et le reste à ne pas savoir où les mettre, à la pelle! Mais le coeur? Depuis cinq cents millions d’années, les tubes gastriques et le reste ça se compte plus; les coeurs, sur les doigts.» 

– Louis-Ferdinand Céline, Lettre à Milton Hindus.

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